Table Saw opportunities

Fellow Hivers:

Following tonight’s meeting, the newly formed Shop Tool Acquisition Committee has researched Craig’s List for replacement table saw opportunities and presents the following list of candidates for membership consideration:

(1) DELTA 36-600 10 Inch Table Saw, $230 or OBO - $230 (Hebron, KY)

(2) Craftsman Table Saw Asking $325 OBO

(3) Grizzly 10" Table Saw - $350 (Northside)

(4) Porter Cable TABLE SAW in EXCELLENT CONDITION!! $375 OBO (West Chester)

(5) 10" Delta cabinet saw - $475 (Union, KY)



(8) Delta RT40 Table Saw w/ Biesemeyer Fence - $5000 (Clayton OH)

Reply to this post to share your opinions.

Why are we looking at used table saws when we could have bought Ed’s (a former member) table saw? I assumed the reason an offer wasn’t made on his saw was because the hive was purchasing a new one.

I think Ed wanted his back.

I believe Jim asked him to donate it when he offered to sell it to the hive. I don’t think any price was discussed. I came in with him so he could take pictures for when he posted it on Craigslist.

I did a quick search of the past 2 years of mailing list for messages from
Ed regarding this and came up with nothing. Ed could have mailed the list
if he wanted to sell it to the hive to initiate the discussion he knew
would be required. Jim (or whomever talked to Ed about him selling it)
could have emailed the list to initiate discussion. Both of these probably
should have happened. Evidently, they didn't and it's now time to deal
with it by finding another table saw. C'est la vie. Let's try to do
better next time with communication?

Communication-wise, this isn’t a real mailing list, and not every member is a part of it. Is there an actual official communication hub besides the wiki? Is the Google group the official channel?

I agree, c’est la vie, but now that we have a Shop Tool Acquisition Committee, I’m sure communication will vastly improve.

As a non-woodworker I’ll ask a stupid question, what’s wrong with the saw there now? Or is that the saw of Ed’s that is being discussed?

Also, why isn’t this a real mailing list? Do you have to have a gmail account to use it or something? I will say that if you just follow this “list” than it becomes clear a lot of stuff happens off list, and you have to kind of read between the lines. :slight_smile:

Communication-wise, this isn’t a real mailing list, and not every member is a part of it.

At the present time this fake mailing list is the best way to communicate with other members of the space. To the best of my knowledge it has been since the space was created. We do our best to inform other members of this communication medium upon joining, but it is up to them to take the initiative to join and be active on it.

I think this thread has been derailed enough… Can we stop feeding the trolls?

Am I one of the trolls? If so, you have my apologies. I was just asking about the list because I didn’t understand the comment. There was no judgment implied, I was just curious about the difference between this mailing list and one that is “real.” I was/am prepared to be educated.

Ditto for my unanswered question about the saw, though reading back I strongly suspect the answer is “yes, that saw is the one we are talking about.”

You are definitely not one of the trolls Marcus.

The saw we are talking about belonged to a former member, Ed, yes.

And the only difference between this mailing list and a ‘real’ one is the difference that exists in some people’s heads.

I believe Ian talked with SawStop about a 501(c)(3) discount on a SawStop. The contractor model ( the style that is leaving the Hive soon), Canberra had retail for about $1800 with a heavy duty rip fence and a spare cartridge .
Ian seemed to indicate our nonprofit status would get it for less.

Why not be safer? Fixing a finger costs way more than a safe saw.

John Sikorsk

When I went on the Manufactory tour, they mentioned they have two table saws: A SawStop and a traditional table saw because the SawStop brake is extremely sensitive to any moisture in wood, and the replacement brake is around $60.

The brakes are free if its electronics indicate it went off in a safety maneuver.

Why would one put wet wood on a table saw? ( I mean his as an enquiry, not sarcasm.
I've heard of turning wet wood, but not table sawing it. Anyway, if the sensor indicates the wood is too wet, and one still wants to cut it, the safety can be disabled. Although that would defeat the purpose.)


I’m just repeating what I was told: They said the wood had to be bone dry to not set off the sensor. I’ve never used the SawStop myself.

Thanks for the info.
I will try to download the contractor saw manual and see what that says.

John Sikorski

Here's what the SawStop contractors' saw manual says about wet wood & the safety system:

<<Emphasis mine>>

Overload Due to Wet Wood — this code indicates that the wood being cut is too wet or too green.

<<You can cut most wet or green wood with the safety system active.>>
<< However, extremely wet or green wood can interfere with the safety system’s ability to detect contact. >>

Accordingly, the system monitors for wet and green wood and, if the wood is too wet or too green, the system will shut off the motor and display this error code. To clear this error, turn the Start/Stop paddle to OFF and turn the main power switch to OFF and then back to ON. In addition,

<<wet pressure-treated wood may cause an overload error or even cause the brake to activate. >>

The chemicals used to pressure treat wood often contain large amounts of copper, which is conductive. When pressure-treated wood is wet, the combination of copper and water substantially increase the conductivity of the wood. Therefore, allow wet pressure-treated wood to fully dry before cutting.

<<Typically, the wood will be sufficiently dry if left unstacked in a dry location for 24 hours. >>

If you must cut wet pressure-treated wood, you can use the Material Conductivity Test described above to test whether the wood is too wet. If the test indicated the wood is too wet to cut with the safety system active, you must either allow the wood to dry or make the remaining cuts in Bypass Mode.

<<Note: if the saw shuts down due to an overload error, do not attempt to finish cutting that piece of wood until it has dried. >>

The overload error indicates that the system was close to firing the brake before it went into overload. Therefore, repeatedly attempting to cut a wet piece of wood could result in an unnecessary activation of the brake.

The above contrasts with what others have heard.

My (very limited!) experience with a "cabinet" ( not "contractor") type SawStop demonstrated no problems cutting
wood "acclimated" to the garage or basement (neither of which is "bone dry" or probably even dry enough for professional work).

Perhaps we could get SawStop to comment?

John Sikorski

Maybe I’m dumb, but why not just get a simple table saw like Ed’s? If you don’t know how to cut safely, don’t use it?

I’ll ask my dad (who does woodworking semiprofessionally and has also lost a fingertip to a table saw) about this thing. He’s pretty safety conscious these days…

I think “does woodworking semiprofessionally” + “has also lost a fingertip” kind of speaks for itself as to whether only people who don’t know how to cut safely can have an accident. :stuck_out_tongue:

My dad worked for David T. Smith as a professional cabinetmaker for a while. Now, it’s more of a hobby although he does teach kids woodworking now too as part of his job as an art teacher. His accident was maybe eight years ago or so. He’s always been super careful and would legitimately be a good person to ask about this. Like all joking aside.