Good point. We’ve also got a new air filter on the warden’s sheet as well.
Andrew, FYI, I just drew up a 3D printed part to convert more “homer” buckets into cyclones (I’m using the same to feed 4" and 2" duct into bucket with filter media.
Should be a fairly snug fit. I just need to add a couple holes for fasteners…
Thanks, are you sure the hole is the right size? I believe the shop vacs are using some very crazy sizes. The first one I made I spent a ton of time fiddling with the circle cutter to get the right size. Anyway I know it’s not the same as Schedule 40 PVC, which is what was used to make the filter.
Andrew:
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the comment on HackADay’s dust shoe was just to point out that we’ve already got one.
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I’ve seen web-based suggestions that a 60PSI air gun can be used from the outside to knock more dust loose from pleated filters.
Can we adjust a hose to accommodate that? (maybe install one or more regulators at the outfeed side of the air hose hookups?) -
Perhaps too obvious, but, if frequent cycling of the DC is a problem, could we just do auto-on and manual off?
Then it would run until the user shut it off, rather that cycling with every on/off cycle of the, e.g., band saw.
(And it takes advantage of the fact that nobody wants to walk over to the OFF switch several times in the middle of a project! ;^) )
Or just make the cycle time long-ish (say 30 min.) so that it won’t be left on all night, either… -
I remember now the problem with the table saw and wood size & walk-around clearance and agree that a local DC system is more practical.
Again, with a long-ish on/off cycle.
John2pt0
It’s parametric. That image was 4" for the one I’m doing in electronics. Can be made with any diameter simply by changing the value in the CAD software…
That’s an advantage to 3D printing, doing odd sizes and configurations & still getting good tolerances and fit. As far as common couplings and widgets, it’s not so great (hey, if you want to spend 3+ hours printing a $2 PVC coupler, go for it). 3D printing is still best as a rapid prototyping and one-off design technology. However, I’m into it mosty for the wacky colors and the never ending hot-rodding of the printers…
So, yes, I’m trying my 4" version today. Once I get it right, should only need ID and OD to make some. Also it helps that shop-vac attachments are common on thingiverse…
I still haven’t tried printing quick-loc hose, though. That stuff is crazy overpriced to buy retail. It would suck in PLA, but I have some nylon or PET that would work maybe…
Lorin
Ry
I have a version of the CNC intro slides with an explanation of the GWizard slide.
I can forward a pdf to you to replace the original upload.
John2pt0
Andrew:
the comment on HackADay’s dust shoe was just to point out that we’ve already got one.
I’ve seen web-based suggestions that a 60PSI air gun can be used from the outside to knock more dust loose from pleated filters.
Can we adjust a hose to accommodate that? (maybe install one or more regulators at the outfeed side of the air hose hookups?)
I think we should look into cleaning the current filter as a stop gap, but I suspect it’s done. The problem is that the glass fibers from the fine dust get trapped and tear up the filter. We might get the visible dust out, but not the invisible. They appear to be ~$100 for something that’s going to last several months to a year before needing to be replaced.
Finally, given that the system was so neglected it clogged to the point of malfunction, I’m not confident that anybody will clean it. I think I’ll add two new filters to the project, one for now, one as a backup.
- Perhaps too obvious, but, if frequent cycling of the DC is a problem, could we just do auto-on and manual off?
Then it would run until the user shut it off, rather that cycling with every on/off cycle of the, e.g., band saw.
(And it takes advantage of the fact that nobody wants to walk over to the OFF switch several times in the middle of a project! ;^) )
Or just make the cycle time long-ish (say 30 min.) so that it won’t be left on all night, either…
This seems like a winner. 30 minutes seems like a decent delay. However, I’m not too worried about that, what I really want is a dust collection system that collects dust. We can add the gee whizzz stuff later.
- I remember now the problem with the table saw and wood size & walk-around clearance and agree that a local DC system is more practical.
Again, with a long-ish on/off cycle.
The problem with that is that I don’t think the shop vacs have enough power even when they’re working correctly. I’d been assuming it was a problem with filter being perpetually clogged, but Brad’s link indicates that’s not the case, and further we should probably have a collector on a blade guard over the blade itself. Regardless, having the current cyclone setup is an improvement.
@Lorin - How long would it take to print, how much would the materials cost? Right now I’m at about 30 minutes of work + free scrap plywood with my approach.
Try not to get too deep and then not do anything. I tend to get overwhelmed and then look around and wonder why nothing has happened.
The cyclone system we have is WAY better than nothing, probably need to replace the filters. They are a consumable item. With proper maintenance they should last a few months (depending on use). With a good reverse flow cleaning I bet they can still be used. We may have to get a good vacuum bristle brush and work on the inside of the filter to dislodge most of the packed in stuff. I’d be happy to help clean out what we have.
We could setup some kind of inspection for the fine filter. Taking a look inside can reveal a lot. Once we get some kind of gauge it will be easier.
Here is a link I found for smooth bore flex hose:
http://www.ducting.com/abrasives-transfer/wood-dust-collection/smooth-tube-pvc.html
just an example of what’s available.
for some reason I think the bandsaw hoses are smoothbore.
Good times. I’ll be at the meeting tonight.
Thanks,
Brad
The problem with that is that I don’t think the shop vacs have enough power even when they’re working correctly. I’d been assuming it was a problem with filter being perpetually clogged, but Brad’s link indicates that’s not the case, and further we should probably have a collector on a blade guard over the blade itself. Regardless, having the current cyclone setup is an improvement.
An over and under system would certainly collect more dust.
I’ve seen commercial systems that get around the “not enough clearance for a 4’ x 8’ panel” problem by
routing the blade guard DC straight up and the cabinet DC out far enough to the side that it’s out of the way.
Try not to get too deep and then not do anything. I tend to get overwhelmed and then look around and wonder why nothing has happened.
Excellent advice. I’m trying to get a lot done now because I’ve got the time. Later my time will be much more limited.
BTW, just discovered our router will not do what I need it to do to build doors. Guessing a router with speed control and a decent table/lift is another $1K.
The cyclone system we have is WAY better than nothing, probably need to replace the filters.
The cyclone system is excellent from what I can tell, the ducting is okay, the filters I think need to be improved.
They are a consumable item. With proper maintenance they should last a few months (depending on use). With a good reverse flow cleaning I bet they can still be used.
I don’t think this is the case, and further visual inspection won’t reveal the flaws, or at least that’s what was in the link John sent out.
If you must filter then you should use a good cyclone separator that keeps the chips out of our filters because chips jam the filter pleats so when cleaning they poke holes and ruin our fine filters. Almost any cyclone will do this well, but expect to need to replace your fine filters roughly every three months of full time work. The problem is airborne dust ruins fine filters because it gets into the filter pores where the razor sharp edges and sharp often barbed points coupled with cleaning cause this dust to tear up the filter strands. This opens the filters and although they may still filter off the visible dust, they soon freely pass the unhealthiest fine invisible dust.
http://www.billpentz.com/Woodworking/Cyclone/ducting.cfm
for some reason I think the bandsaw hoses are smoothbore.
Yes, I’m aware, whoever (Jon?) got the right kind of flex tubing, but flex tubing is still flex tubing, and should be minimized where ever possible. Right now the connection to the band saw is very questionable, if it’s in a semi permanent place.
I’ve seen commercial systems that get around the “not enough clearance for a 4’ x 8’ panel” problem by
routing the blade guard DC straight up and the cabinet DC out far enough to the side that it’s out of the way.
To do that would probably require it to run behind the shelf, and have some sort of “ramp” over where it ran across the floor.
Here’s what the current flexy routing to the band saw looks like, in red. Also marked the fine dust collection in blue.
I know I have seen the large chip output quite full on several occasions (since you cleared the small dust collection). I would suggest greatly increasing the size of this, since you are considering adding additional tools. Additional nice to haves for this would be handles, casters or wheels…maybe even something the size of the current scrap wood barrel but maybe a different size and shape.
Love the video!
Maybe we could improvise an update for the small drum, as its blast gate spews dust even when closed.
E.g., a cover with a screw-on cap, instead of a gate?
Making matching screw threads might be a nice 3D modeling class/exercise, too.
I know I’d like to figure that out for Fusion 360.
John2pt0
I just forgot to put the holes / threads in that one. It’s super easy. The challenging part was using T-Splines to make an exact compound curved surface to match the bucket.
It fits perfectly. Printed it up without any fuss on my PrintrBot simple metal.
This one is 4" diameter for the electronics area fume hood / filter.
Just let me know the I.D., O,D. thread sizes, etc.
I’ll put together a proper CAD design class in a month or two. The last one was rushed and ended up just being a Q&A open lab thingy. There are lots of good tutorials for the software, but I’m finding that the design principles are somewhat overlooked across the “makerverse” (aka how not to make it a hideous square thing that is not the right size and won’t print).
Looks good Lorin!
As a side note, did the ultimaker ever get fixed?
Professor Vortex sounds like a super hero/villain. 
I just forgot to put the holes / threads in that one. It’s super easy. The challenging part was using T-Splines to make an exact compound curved surface to match the bucket.
How long does it take to print, and how much does the material cost? Right now I’m at free/20 minutes for the plywood version.
Love the video!
Maybe we could improvise an update for the small drum, as its blast gate spews dust even when closed.
Hoping to address this with an updated box. Right now we’ve got a gate designed for a flat surface on a round one.
OTOH, I’ve also seen other options, such as filter clamp-ons, the effectively increase the size of the filter.
Seen here, under “Filter Pan” Cyclone Filters Archives - Wynn Environmental
Regardless, now that it’s not packed full of saw dust there should be far fewer things flying out of it.
OTOH, I’ve also seen other options, such as filter clamp-ons, the effectively increase the size of the filter.
Seen here, under “Filter Pan” https://wynnenv.com/products-page/cyclone-filter-pricing/Regardless, now that it’s not packed full of saw dust there should be far fewer things flying out of it.
And that DIY DC suction monitor (manometer) would be a nice (cheap) indicator for when to clean it again!
It takes 2 hours to print and plastic costs about $1-2. If I had used all the abandoned leftovers at hive the plastic would have been free. It works very nicely.
Yes Tiffany, ultimaker is working fine now. It took a bit of work and money. I have one more sensor to throw on it and it’ll be back and better than ever.