polar3d printer and 3d printing

I finally got my polar 3d printers fixed, well at least fixed from their first problems I had of the extruder becoming/acting clogged and Temps on the extruder being all over the place. The second problem I have had with them is going crazy and shooting up in either the z axis and air printing, and also shooting down into the part and in bedding the nozzle into the print then trying to infill. The last time that happened it popped the plastic gear off of the mirror in when trying to get the mess apart the nozzle needed up breaking off And I I tried putting them in for repair. After getting them back and going off of my observations of when things would act up it all revolved around mainly around the power to the printer and the connections from the power adapter and the printer having different size connectors. When the extruder temp would drop below the 185 down in the 170s and I push on the connection to the side do take up the slack in in barrel connection the temp would come right back up and would leave a distinct ring in my parts when it would happen for a layer or two till I noticed. Now on to the new the psu"s were 12v and the board on the printer uses a 4 pin connector from a computer power supply and use a cable with dean's rc high current connectors as a patch cable between the 2 for cord length and behold I can print more than 2.5 inches high without the printer failing to feed or or air printing!!! The vase I have been working on is about 5 inches high and I'm printing all the way to the top now with the only change to the printer made being a power supply swap, no other changes but of course on printer 2 I have a new nozzle on the way and re glued the plate. HOWEVER the problem I have now is that when using repetier the top .5 to 1 inches print on a offset of about 45 degrees??? But keep the same diameters and infill lol, (leaning tower of piza). I have been working on the .ini files and settings and am stumped. Contemplating if I save the .ini as the same as the polar3d file for its files if it would be possible because my only mod I had to make was a .45mm nozzle on the one printer and at needed to raise Temps a bit after the first layer and am getting much better results in strength. I have read on the net for hours about what settings and Temps are best lol but its all for the other home use 3d printers and cam not find any info for polar 3d and their software is very easy to use but has no options for advance settings from it. Also just for the FYI I am using the filter in polar 3d for repitier for the g code output. If anyone g as a clean .ini file to help that has had this issue any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time!

Just an update, The printer is printing at absolutely amazing quality however still having problems with something somewhere. I have been printing the squirrel file with all different settings in layer height, perimeters, infill etc, and it is leaving the top of the heads off of them. looks like about 5% of the top is missing. Runnng into that same problem with anything I print or if it does print the last few layers they are offset? Going to try and finish up fixing up a desktop pc I have been working in and do a fresh install tonight however if anyone has an idea of what could be causing this im open to ANY suggestions. I left my phone at work going to go get it I will post some pictures of whats going on it seems really strange???

Other recipients:

Just an update I have been running all different layer heights and have just been printing out the squirrel file with the polar3d desktop and I am getting absolutely amazing quality…95% of the part then the printer is just going idle, I have a squ

Our software is only for our PLA, but you can certainly import our settings into Repetier-Host’s Slic3r configurations. If you import our settings, you’ll need to modify the Extruder nozzle diameter. With the 45 degree offset, is it consistent or random? If it is random, then I’d suggest tweaking the current to the motor. If the motor temp is very hot, then lowering it will fix the problem. If it is cold and easy to turn, it’s possible that the current isn’t high enough. It’s a fine balancing act. The motor current trim pots on the printrboard electronics are from right to left, the X axis (slide), Y axis (rotation), Z Axis (lift) and the extruder.

Adjusting the current on the second one from the right should fix your rotational skew problem. Normally, they’re set to about the 6:30 position… but because they are analog/mechanical devices, there is some adjustments needed to get it exact.


Thank you very much for the reply I got the one printer working absolutely awesome now with great resolution! printer number 2 I was pushing filament that was clogged up out of it and screwed the throat/hot end adjuster up from my hand slipping however with the adjustments to that one as well it was printing awesome but got clogged up when I was printing ultra thin layers just to see what I could pull off with it so after all of this just needing to get a hotend is a relief. Also thank you very much for your time and info to get these things tuned in right it really means a lot to me. The guy at your work told me that both printers needed $100 extruder units and possibly even more stuff for them to work and was a little shocked but with swapping out the power ends and taking your advice on the pots and your settings you loaded it is running like a dream I just had to tweak the temps to run the cheap micro center crap because I went threw everything I bought from you guys and only ended up with like 3 squirrels and roller wheels that were printing leaning to one side and could not afford to buy the good stuff again until I know I had it running right. Thanks again for your time!