So I could use a TL081 (single amp) instead of the dual amp, just adjusting the pin connections?
Sorry for so many questions, I just want to make sure I’m doing it right. The funny thing is, in fritzing, pins 4 and 8 are represented.
So in your schematic, the positive supply end should be connected to a “V+” port (Edit > Add > search for V+), and the negative supply should be connected to a “V-” port (search for V-). The pins 4 and pin 8 are automatically connected to V- and V+ in the background (you don’t see these connections in the schematic), but in your layout the connections should be there.
@#*#@!%(^!!!
That’s all it was? Thanks a ton.
Marcus,
Which diode do I use in the power circuit?
It’s just to insure you don’t accidentally fry the chip by getting power backwards, so I imagine a wide variety would work. Here’s the parts list that goes with that diagram. http://www.mouser.com/ProjectManager/ProjectDetail.aspx?AccessID=22f1f257f6
And the particular diode I’ve most recently used because it was cheap was http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=SB120-E3/54virtualkey61370000virtualkey625-SB120-E3.
Thanks
Oh wait, I remember why I chose that diode, and it’s not true that most would do, depending on your power source. What was special about that diode is the low forward voltage drop. It sucks up less than .5 volts which means that 4 batteries can still provide enough power to the voltage regulator to still allow it to give out 5 volts. If you are using more than 6 volts input, (like a wall wart), it won’t matter as much.
Oh my, where has this diode been all my life?
Thank you Marcus!
You still need a low dropout voltage regulator if you want to use it to get 5 volts with just 4 batteries. Like in that parts list above that isn’t currently working because mouser seems to be having problems.
Thanks again, that’s good to know. I’m lernin a lot frum ewe fellers and fellettes.
Yes I’m a dork, and it’s late.