Does anyone know the details of how to get the furnace at the Hive online?
Kerensa is at the Hive and it is not turning on. She turned the set temp on the thermostat up from 55.
Is it set on “heat”?
Is there a magic switch or secret knock/spell?
Well It takes 5-10 minutes or so for it to kick on , maybe few more.
The research so far.
The pilot lite is lit…It has also been stopped and relit…
The furnace is set to ON.
The batteries in the thermostat has been replaced.
The thermostat at default and when it is set to hold 71 makes no difference.
The breaker has been tripped and reset.
I found what appears to be the service disconnect switch near the ceiling… Nothing you do here makes a difference.
NOTE: Nothing you do at thermostat seems to affect the furnace… Including setting the fan to ON instead of Auto.
Sean Ellwood
Probably time to call Garden street.
I think Ryan has worked with them.
For the record and for general knowledge (to be used wisely):
Great to know. Thanks for the info.
We will stick with Greg working with “Garden Street” but it is nice to know who to call if something goes wrong.
We should probably post some instructions for the furnace by the thermostat for next year. I wonder if the unit is having startup issues. Apparently there is a sensor that detects the flame presence and will not allow the unit to run if the pilot light is not detected. Sometimes that sensor gets shifted out of position or just stops working.
Ooooo we have moved some stuff around this year, maybe the wires from the thermostat got pinched or cut by something?
Hello all, Just read the posts and have a bit of diagnostic insight based on growing up in the 50’s.(probable age of that Reznor furnace.)
All good diagnostic steps taken so far, but missed the thermocouple.
#1 thing that failed in old furnaces and water heaters is the Thermocouple. Most homes used to have a new replacement thermocouple hanging on a nail in the basement. When the furnace died, you replaced it a bought another.
When the thermocouple dies, the gas valve won’t open. It’s a safety factor to assure the pilot is light before dumping gas to the burner. Replacements Thermocouple ought to be in the hardware store for $10 to $20 and easy with a wrench.
#2 thing that failed was the fan belt. That was on the second nail.
Regards,
Dave Velzy
That is a good diagnostic step (and I’ve replaced a few myself), but I was told over IRC that they could see the pilot light lit when they looked up into it, so I had assumed that it was still good. I’ll be down at the Hive this afternoon and I’ll take a look at it. I believe that furnace is from like 1995, but it works just like they always have post-thermocouple, pre-electronic ignition.
I had a furnace up in Toledo from the 1940s that had a bimetallic spring that was over the pilot flame and when it got hot, it deformed and held a valve open that allowed gas to flow. It broke sometime before I had the house and had been bypassed, so, that furnace got replaced pretty quickly.
Trent is back up and heating.
What was it?
I’m betting thermocouple.
Could we create a quick procedure for the heater an post it by the thermostat?
It turned out to be a bad solenoid in the gas valve. Greg bought a replacement unit. We may want to ask Garden Street about reimbursement.
- Ry
I agree.
Greg could get the receipt to Jim and let the Hive reimburse him, then we can chase down Garden St. for reimbursement.
Thanks Greg for fixing it.
It’s usually the first use of the season that brings out the bugs.
Brad