Advice on 3D printer Buy

Calling out for your input on buying a Prusa I3 Clone 3D printer.
I’m looking to buy a home based cartesian 3D printer to print parts for the Delta Printer project so that I don’t have to camp out at HIVE13 for days printing parts.
OK, OK. That’s just an excuse. I just want one. .

While in reality I probably can get by with a 200 x 200 x 200 mm print envelope, I’m hopelessly stuck in a flashback Tool Time loop. More Power, Bigger, … for less money.

My top pick is a refurb Creality CR-10S PRO: heated bed, dual-z screws, Out of filament sensor, auto-resume and an aluminum frame. CON <$500

Contenders are
ANET A6 PRO: < $200 CON: No auto resume or auto level. Acrylic frame Terrible instructions.

TEVO Tarantula PRO $400 Aluminum frame CON Terrible instructions, Needs many mods. Part quality / reliability

Wanhao I3 Duplicator PRO $350 CON No auto level, out of filament or auto resume.

Trade offs
CR-10S has built in features and ease of assembly

Contenders have lower prices which will be spent on feature upgrade parts.

So any inputs? How bad is an acrylic frame?

Thanks for your input.

Dave

‎First, the standard answer, then specifics:

  • Do you place more value in your time or in your (money / awesome deal)? The primary difference between a lot of printer ‘levels’ revolves around this point primarily. I’d think, considering you want to invest your time in the delta, that less time fixing this printer would be preferable.

While in reality I probably can get by with a 200 x 200 x 200 mm print envelope, I’m hopelessly stuck in a flashback Tool Time loop. More Power, Bigger, … for less money.

  • Your delta will have large print area. In reality, I’ve never needed more than the area of an ultimaker 2. Cosplay folks, some designers, etc need volume, but I’d just get the best quality ‘big enough’ printer. Also, the bigger the printer the greater magnitude of any tolerance issues ie ringing wobbly Z (anet, I’m talking to you) is amplified as you go up and out.

My top pick is a refurb Creality CR-10S PRO: heated bed, dual-z screws, Out of filament sensor, auto-resume and an aluminum frame. CON <$500

  • Sounds like a deal. Forgo the filament sensor, auto-resume, etc if you can get a better price that way. You’ll use it less than you think, and you can resume manually by noting the Z height in octoprint (or calipers) and setting the slicer to start there. A kg of plastic is a LOT. Also I splice ends of rolls together if needed with a cheap hair straightening iron.

Contenders are
ANET A6 PRO: < $200 CON: No auto resume or auto level. Acrylic frame Terrible instructions.

  • Plastic is not terrible, but it’s an enraging feature on this one due to the manner of construction.

TEVO Tarantula PRO $400 Aluminum frame CON Terrible instructions, Needs many mods. Part quality / reliability

  • The advantage here is that it is easily mod-able. Forget the instructions, you and youtube can figure it out. ‎Having very standard MKS ramps style electronics is a plus. Also I think there’s an e3d hotend option.

Wanhao I3 Duplicator PRO $350 CON No auto level, out of filament or auto resume.

  • meh. Reliability is an issue here. I hear about a lot of these collecting dust after a few months.

Trade offs
CR-10S has built in features and ease of assembly

Contenders have lower prices which will be spent on feature upgrade parts.

So any inputs? How bad is an acrylic frame?

  • If it were still available, I’d say printrbot simple metal with the build plate upgrade. It’s my workhorse. That said, the creality is the same price point, metal, easy, etc. So, for about the same price, you’d be getting something less indestructible-american-made, but a much more ample build area‎ and convenience of amazon prime.
  • ‎Final point - the i3mk2 is not too much more and amazing for the price, BUT, if your goal is to build another printer, and you’d like it sooner rather than later, fast setup, etc, I think the creality looks like a contender.

Thanks for your input.

Dave



From: Dave Velzy
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2018 3:47 PM
To: Hive13 Hackerspace
Reply To: cincihackerspace@googlegroups.com
Subject: [CHP] Advice on 3D printer Buy

Calling out for your input on buying a Prusa I3 Clone 3D printer.
I’m looking to buy a home based cartesian 3D printer to print parts for the Delta Printer project so that I don’t have to camp out at HIVE13 for days printing parts.
OK, OK. That’s just an excuse. I just want one. .

While in reality I probably can get by with a 200 x 200 x 200 mm print envelope, I’m hopelessly stuck in a flashback Tool Time loop. More Power, Bigger, … for less money.

My top pick is a refurb Creality CR-10S PRO: heated bed, dual-z screws, Out of filament sensor, auto-resume and an aluminum frame. CON <$500

Contenders are
ANET A6 PRO: < $200 CON: No auto resume or auto level. Acrylic frame Terrible instructions.

TEVO Tarantula PRO $400 Aluminum frame CON Terrible instructions, Needs many mods. Part quality / reliability

Wanhao I3 Duplicator PRO $350 CON No auto level, out of filament or auto resume.

Trade offs
CR-10S has built in features and ease of assembly

Contenders have lower prices which will be spent on feature upgrade parts.

So any inputs? How bad is an acrylic frame?

Thanks for your input.

Dave

Thanks for the input Lorin.
I’ve ordered a CR-10.
I’ll wait to test the thing out myself before getting parts for a second z-screw, out of filament sensor or RAMPS 1.4 upgrade.
These can all be added to Delta parts orders.

Any recommendations on filament sellers?

Dave

Basic PLA and PETG - Hatchbox and Tianse have been consistently good for me. Good for everyday use and conveniently available from amazon.

Atomic filament makes great filament in USA. Consistent and good colors.

For mechanical parts, strength, durability, etc I use Taulman filaments. Among other things they are the only manufacturer to test and list engineering specs. You might want to practice with PLA and PETG from above first, though, as taulman is expensive and it would suck to waste it while still “dialing in” the settings and getting used to 3d printing.

Finally, if you need modification parts for your printer printed and can’t be at hive, I can print some on my printer. Just let me know.

Lorin

ARGOS has nice USA filament and is available on Amazon too (Prime).

Check the acceleration/jerk settings on your new printer, my HICTOP Prusa i3 clone has default settings that are WAY too high (3000/20!), and it would skip steps in the x-axis until I figured out how to change it to something more reasonable (I like 900/8 right now but I’m probably being too conservative and over compensating for past disappointments).