3D printer help request

I have a small-ish (~3" x 3" x 1") piece I’d like to print out tomorrow. I have a STL but I don’t have enough experience on the Ultimaker to print it out without messing something up. Does anyone have time to help?

thanks,
-D

I should be at the hive sometime tomorrow morning or early afternoon to help load the lathe. I’d be happy to run your print. Alternatively, just email me the STL and I can print it at home. Does the plastic type matter?

  • Ry

I also can print the file for you Dave if you send me the file. I have mainly pla and hips right now in a wide variety of translucent colors and some solids as well. I won’t be getting home until tomorrow with my flight but could print a spare or something for you if needed

Dave,

If you understand 3d printing well enough with another printer, I’d just read over https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/156-installation

If you use the cura setup that ultimaker provides has really decent presets. It does need the bed to be leveled, and some supervision on the first print… Unfortunately I’m not going to be around to help you, but there are few folks who are fairly familiar with it who might be around.

Lorin

I’m here already this AM trying to get some work finished. The printer is loaded up with black ABS and a .4 nozzle. If you want me to get it started I will, just send me the STL and the layer height you want.

Coy

Coy: how long are you going to be there? I might just stop by.
Lorin: Prefer to have a little more handholding first time using a piece of equipment. I don’t want to be “that guy” who fucks shit up because of n00b.

Kevin: More looking to get familiar so I will be able to function more independently in the future.
Ryan: I need a waterproof plastic that can deal with the highest temperatures possible for a thermoplastic :slight_smile: I’m thinking this means ABS but I honestly am not 100% sure about the relative material properties.

thx

-D

Dave-

Yeah, of the filaments available here, you’ll want ABS or PETG. PETG is as durable as ABS, but often a little easier to print. It has a lower glass transition temperature though.

With some quick googling, I see the plastics begin to soften at:

ABS - 105C

PETG - 88C

Hahahahha that’s lower than the rated operating temperature of the device its housing lol. This could be fun!
:slight_smile:
-D

Also, strength of the object in the Z direction is determined by layer adhesion strength, which can be much lower than the actual plastic strength.

Lorin was trying some nylon printing on the Ultimaker, not sure how that went? I recently got a Flashforge printer in auction and I’m looking forward to trying out PETG and PC…

Mike

I have some techG down at hive from taulman. It’s tricky to print, but really strong. Glass temp is 77c, melting temp is 217. Also nylon bridge as well , which is flexible as well as strong.

If you print the techG (pet), trick is to pretend it’s extra hot PLA (238-245). Hit the fan on 50% or so after first couple layers. Use bit of glue stick. Bed should only be 45C. Make the non-print moves as fast as possible (200mm/sec or more is doable with ultimaker).

More here: http://www.taulman3d.com/best-print-settings.html

They also have detailed material testing specs.

If you try nylon, run it in the food dehydrator for a couple hours. Prints super easy if you do that…

Or just use ABS, we have a ton, and it’s comparatively easy. Those specialty plastics are useful for mechanical parts or FDA approved. I’d try ABS and then experiment from there if it’s not great.

Oh, and that ultimaker is not mine. I bought it for the hive. I’d rather see it used. I imagine Ryan, mike, Kevin and few people could help you out.

Lorin

Arggh. I wish I were around, I did some test prints in all of those (same part) to leave there for folks. Of course I just saw that I threw it in my toolbox by mistake and took it home…

Nylon is probably best balance of printability, temp, strength, etc. PETG is really for stuff you want to be HARD as rock but not as flexible as ABS. If you get a good print, you can hit it with a hammer, but it cracks if you flex it. Also, trickier to print without inconsistent layer bonding.

Maybe I should do a class on this when I’m back in town.