laser - dxf conversion software, pneumatic cooling system

2 things -

There is unregistered software on laserchicken for converting DWG’s to DXF’s. It’s been the most reliable method I’ve found for getting dwg’s over to the EasyCut software (exporting a DXF straight out of AutoCAD doesn’t work). It’s telling me that our unregistered period is over and that we need to register to continue use ($75). Do we already have a registration code? If not, can we purchase one?

The pneumatic cooling system for the lazor doesn’t seem to be turning on. I turn the beige knob, but don’t hear anything. When I left yesterday at 5:00 I turned the laser off but left the exhaust/cooling system on because Bill was going to be in there using the 3d printer. The exhaust was still running when I got in today, and when I felt the black motor to the left of the beige pneumatic knob it felt really hot. I shut everything off and let it cool down, but that hasn’t seemed to help. When I turn it on the motor gets hot again.

My apologies if that one is my fault. Anyone know how to fix it?

Craig

I haven’t worked with dwg files, so I don’t have an immediate answer for the first question. I see several apparently free conversion utilities with a quick google search, but would need to read further to see if one is a suitable fit.

As to the second… Did you ever hear the air compressor running in the metals room? It may be off or unplugged. We’ve had some complaints about after hours noise from our upstairs neighbor that might be traced to that compressor. It may have been switched off as a courtesy to him.

I'll check that later when I swing back by there. I think it was on, but I'm not sure.

The compressor was unplugged. Everything is working fine now. Thanks!

Please unplug it when you leave so our neighbor doesn’t have to suffer with it running overnight.

Maybe we could setup a high amperage timer?

I’d suggest that we put some of our noisier stuff on timers. We can start with the air compressor. However, it may not be a bad idea for some other tools if needed. Not only would stuff go automatically off, but automatically on. So, you could disable the compressor 20:00-08:00, and also the lazor in unison so we don’t break either.

Outlet timers are pretty cheap and reliable. Here’s a random one from amazon that has 110 and 240… I’m not endorsing that model, just saying it exists and is cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Controls-734145-24-Hour-240-volt/dp/B0040R97I0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453677200&sr=8-1&keywords=240+V+timer

The mechanical types with relays are terrific, as they are passive and don’t have MCU to fry or lose its timing.

I forget what time it is all the time when I’m in the middle of a project. I also forget to plug things back in. I also think that designing our own solution would be more expensive, troublesome, and doesn’t solve the problem before the neighbor goes ape-shit or the lazor breaks.

And, yes, the most likely culprit for obnoxious sound going upstairs is the compressor. If you place a 60Hz-120Hz sound source in a corner you get mechanical coupling that makes the wall transduction 9-12 dB louder than the compressor itself. That wall goes into that apartment. No amount of fiberglass is going to stop a standing wave oscillating a wall… I’d imagine it also makes shuddering sounds up there when someone unleashes a blast of air in addition to when the motor kicks.

Lorin

I turned it off and left a sign on the big laser to turn it on and off at each use.

Hobbs pressure switch to enable the laser or am I thinking of making things too idiot proof? I think I have a few lower PSI ones.
-D

For the air compressor why don’t we just use a low voltage timer system on the pressure limit switch. That way it just deals with the low voltage signal wire, I believe that’s how that one is setup I could be wrong.

I export dxf files straight from AutoCAD but you have to choose one of the earlier versons like R12 from the save as dialog box.